Scroll to the bottom of this post for a printer-friendly PDF of the recipe only.
If I’m at a restaurant and there’s steak frites on the menu, chances are I’m going to order it. French bistro food is my vibe, and steak frites is a dish that when done right is amazing, and when done kind of bad is still kind of OK. But recently, I visited Queen St., a new-ish restaurant in Eagle Rock, and was presented with a new protein + french fries combo: tuna frites. And reader, my mind was blown.
The yellowfin tuna was seared on a wood grill until medium rare and drowned in a ponzu sauce, and the perfectly crisp shoestring fries were dusted in some kind of glorious seasoning and served with a generous portion of garlic chili aioli. My friend and I split the dish and it was a spiritual experience — so much so that I took my husband back a few weeks later to try it for himself. I’ve been wanting to figure out a reason to make it at home and then it hit me: Valentine’s Day! Because what’s sexier than a hunk of barely cooked fish and a pile of steaming fries, served with two sauces to smother both in?
When my husband tasted this at-home version, he said he’d pay $50 for it at a restaurant — appropriate, because that’s what it costs at Queen St.! My adaptation is much more wallet-friendly and shockingly easy to make, but just as impressive and delicious.
Tell me more
Steak frites is a go-to at-home date night dinner because it’s fairly easy and big-time good, and this pescatarian version is even easier. The tuna cooks in minutes and the ponzu pan sauce comes together even quicker. Plus, we’ll be using frozen fries. Low effort, high reward!! Very apropos for Valentine’s Day.
If you’ve never had seared tuna steaks before, they have a melt-in-your-mouth, buttery texture and super mild taste that’s more sashimi, less canned tuna. The pan sauce is a mixture of butter and ponzu, an umami-rich Japanese citrus sauce that’s salty and tart and sweet all at once. The crispy fries are the perfect counterpart to the delicate fish, and the aioli is the cherry on top of a near-perfect meal.
A perfect pairing
I’ve asked my friend Megan Park, the woman behind my favorite wine Instagram, glou-glou glossary, to suggest a wine pairing for the meal — because if we’re going to be recreating a restaurant-quality meal at home, we need vino. Megan’s a non-somm who always knows the perfect bottle of wine to enjoy with a meal, and also happens to be one of my oldest and dearest friends (and the person with whom I first shared this glorious dish at Queen St.). In other words, I trust her with my life. And my wine pairings.
Picture this: tuna frites seductively swimming in a buttery ponzu sauce, paired perfectly with this medium-bodied Xarello from Spain. Tart yet round, with notes of ripe stone fruit, and a hint of earthy spice. This producer gets major brownie points for their organic, hand-picked, no-additives approach – because nothing says "I love you" like a thoughtfully made wine. Cheers to love and a glass (or two) of Blanc Sense Papers, because life's too short for mediocre pairings (and shitty lovers).
Find it near you: Bodega Clandestina Blanc Sense Papers
Notes before you start
Because this is date night and we don’t want to be spending a ton of time in the kitchen (or maybe you do?), I’m using a shortcut: frozen french fries. This makes the meal so quick and easy. Like, less than 30 minutes from start to finish. If you do want to go the extra mile, however, I’ve included my method for making fries from scratch.
I do prefer making my own mayonnaise, especially when I’m using it as a dip rather than just a sandwich condiment. It just tastes infinitely better! I use olive oil because I think olive oil mayo is superior, but you can opt for a more neutral-flavored oil as well. If making your own mayo is not for you, I’ll tell ya how to doctor up store-bought mayo.
I get my tuna at one of two places: Fish King in Glendale, which I have been going to since I was a child and is my OG fish place, or Dry Dock Fish, a fishmonger with stands at most farmers’ markets throughout LA and super fresh fish. If I can’t make it to either of these, I go to the Whole Foods fish market. Going to a fish market is going to get you the freshest fish, but if you don’t have one, your grocery store is your next best bet. Ask the people behind the fish counter if the tuna has been frozen and, if the answer is yes, when it was defrosted. Sometimes buying frozen fish from the freezer section and defrosting it yourself is the fresher option.
If you’re in LA, do yourself a favor and go to Queen St. You can compare my version to theirs!! The food is seriously incredible, the service is top-notch, and – best of all – they don’t rush you through a meal. Both times I’ve gone I’ve spent over two hours enjoying a delicious, leisurely dinner. A rare treat in LA.
Appetizers!! If you’re looking for a starter, I’d suggest going either the French bistro route (this is a play on steak frites, after all) or the seafood route. For the first, you could do steak tartare. For the second, crudo is beyond easy and so good, and a shrimp cocktail is a classic. Oysters with mignonette and lots of hot sauce fits both vibes.
And for dessert, I suggest this recipe for Derby Pie from the chef at Queen St., Ari Kolender. We finished off our meal at the restaurant with this pie and it was perfect.
The recipe
Note: recipe videos are posted on my Instagram.
Tuna Frites
Serves: 2
Cook time: 25 minutes
Keep reading with a 7-day free trial
Subscribe to Saturday Table to keep reading this post and get 7 days of free access to the full post archives.